La Foa, NEW CALEDONIA
Airing Date: Dec 30th, 2002
The La Foa district in New Caledonia, an hour and a half drive from the capital Noumea, is home to thousands of years of fascinating history.
The Kanak people have populated New Caledonia for 3500 years. In La Foa, the Oua Tom tribe invite people into their homes to experience their traditions.
The Grand Case is traditionally the centre of Kanak life and where the chief would live, but nowadays, he lives in a more modern house and the Grand Case is used for gatherings and meetings.
When visiting the homes of the Kanak people it is important to remember you are a visitor and that you should ask before entering. It is also polite to bring a small gift. In return, the Oua Tom women teach guests how to make coconut palm leaf crockery.
The Kanak people populated La Foa for thousands of years but in 1853 the French took over and 11 years later the convicts arrived. Prisoners sent to New Caledonia were called wretches in paradise.
For many convicts New Caledonia did appear to be an escape to paradise, but the severe punishments quickly changed this perception. In 28 years eight prisoners faced the guillotine.
It wasnt just the convicts who suffered. The new arrivals forced the Kanaks off their land. Starving and angry, the Kanaks attacked the settlement in Fort Teremba in 1878. Furious at the officials and convicts, they built protective walls to keep them out.
In 1942 the United States entered World War II and New Caledonia was the South Pacific headquarters. More than a million soldiers passed through during the war, La Foa's Hotel Banu became the GIs' home away from home. Today, the Banu is famous for its cap collection. At last count there were 4196, and visitors are welcome to add to the collection.
La Foas future is in farming and tourism, and La Pierrat is a place that combines both. La Pierrat is a 500 hectare working cattle farm that runs guided horse rides through the fields. The farm is similar to an Australian cattle station.
La Foa also boasts fine dining. Chez Mamie Fogliani is a local institution, serving delicious three course home cooked meals. The menu features dishes like roasted venison served with vegetables such as yam and taro.
The facts:
Air Calin flies to Noumea 10 times a week. Prices start from $1024 ex Sydney, $1007 ex Melbourne, $1587 ex Brisbane and $2273 ex Perth, including taxes.
Air Calin
Tel: 1800 736 363
Rooms at La Pierrat Farmstay start from $71 per couple per night. Half day horse riding tours cost $59.
La Pierrat Farmstay
Tel: 0011 687 443361 (international)
Guided tours of Fort Teremba cost $8.
Tours of the Oua Tom gardens and Grand Case cost $7.50.
Meals at Chez Mamie Fogliani cost around $30.
