The capital of Bali has been the focus of much of the growth and wealth on the island over the last few decades, and though the traffic, noise and pollution make it a difficult city to relish, Denpasar still retains pleasant, tree-lined streets and gardens and is very much part of the 'real' Bali.
The two beach sites of Kuta and Legian have been a major travel drawcard for more than 25 years, offering cheap accommodation, Western food, great shopping, surf, sunsets and riotous nightlife. However, the events of October 2002 shattered the idyll.
Nearly 200 people were killed after the bombing of the Sari and Paddy's nightclubs. This terrorist act put a severe dent in tourist numbers and the businesses that relied on them. Things are recovering, tourist numbers are picking up, but some wonder whether Kuta will ever be the same again.
The volcanic cone of Gunung Batur and the lake that fills half of the surrounding caldera form one of Bali's most spectacular landscapes. Climbing Batur (1717m/5631ft) to see the sunrise is a magnificent experience, but be prepared for damp, cold and cloudy conditions and some aggressive souvenir sellers.