Hienghène has two main drawcards: it's the site of the massacre of 10 indépendantistes in 1984 and also the Lindéralique Cliffs - dramatic, black limestone cliffs, rising in some places to 60m (197ft) above the sea, topped by razor-sharp pinnacles, and dotted with caves inhabited by flying foxes.
Since the bombs and riots of the 1980s, Noumea has begun a swag of new developments unparalleled since the heady days of the nickel boom. Political rallies today are more likely to be protesting forced redundancies and cuts to services than demanding an end to French rule.
From Anse Vata in the south, Noumea's most prestigious beach, to the northern suburbs of Koutiou and Yahoue, the town measures little more than 15km (9.3mi). The city centre spreads along Baie de la Moselle to the west, a fine harbour with cruise liners, fishing boats and a fleet of private yachts.