The south coast of 'Upolu is a string of sparkling palm-fringed beaches where you can lie back and enjoy an idyllic shore lifestyle. First up is the Return to Paradise Beach, made famous by Gary Cooper in the film of the same name. Pounding surf and shallow reefs make swimming a hazard though.
If you keep going around the coast you'll eventually get to the easternmost tip of 'Upolu and here you'll find the reefs of the Aleipata district. This is one of the most breathtaking areas of Samoa with reefs of a brilliant turquoise blue and some of the loveliest swimming beaches around.
Apia, on the island of 'Upolu, is the capital of Samoa and the only place in Samoa that you could call a city and really mean it. For all of its modern details, such as banks and burger outlets, it still retains the picturesque charm of its history.
All the traders, pirates, whalers, and fallen missionaries who have washed up on the shores of Apia still seem to be present in spirit in Apia's slightly rundown air and the old pula trees shading the streets. Apia's neat villages climb up the gentle slopes towards the hills and into the valleys.